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A BIG thank you to. . .
Let me thank a few people for their contributions to the success of our trip:
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The First Visit
In February, 2001, Julie and I made a "spur of the moment" trip to Las Vegas, and we took a day to drive to Hoover Dam and the Canyon. Both of these places were far more interesting to me that Vegas, and I was totally amazed by the Grand Canyon. Unfortunately, we arrived with only about 45 minutes of daylight left, and we had to get all the way back to Vegas to catch our flight, so this visit was an extremely short one---10+ hours of driving and less than an hour of Canyon. I knew right away that I wanted to return when I had considerably more time to explore.
Prep Hikes in Minnesota
Knowing that none of us was physically prepared to backpack the Grand Canyon, we took several weekends to strap on the packs and hike in the state and local parks in Minnesota in an effort to condidtion ourselves for the trip. I think we did a fairly decent amount of hiking, but it was nowhere near enough---there was simply no place with enough elevation change to prepare us for the steepness of the South Kaibab Trail. For my next visit to the Canyon, I'm going to invest in a StairMaster and/or treadmill (one couple I met along the trail told me they had strapped 30 pounds on and walked their treadmills a minimum of three times a week for six months to prepare for the Canyon).
Crow Hassan Park Reserve
Julie & I met for our first prep-hike on a Sunday morning---we planned to hike the 5.6 mile loop at Crow Hassen Park Reserve. The weather called for sunny and 78 degrees, but we got rained on for over an hour and a half!! We also managed to extend the hike to nearly 8 miles by taking a couple of wrong turns at trail intersections.
Minnehaha Falls
Jerry, Dee, Julie, and Jeff met on a Saturday to hike along the creek from Minnehaha Falls to the Mississippi River just south of downtown Minneapolis. This hike was very scenic, but it was less than two miles. We should have made several laps, but we didn't. We did stop at the River and cook up a batch of dehydrated ham & eggs, just to see if "backpacker's food" was edible. It certainly wasn't like home-made, but we figured we could survive on it for a few days.
Afton State Park
The whole crew got together for a day of hiking at Afton State Park. This park, just east of the Twin Cities, offered us both a longer and a more difficult hike. The leaves had begun to turn by now, and the weather was cool, but not cold.
The whole gang at Afton State Park
(St. Croix River in background)
William O'Brian State Park
After a hearty freeze-
dried lunch, Julie is
ready for more hikingJulie, Ken, and I met for our longest prep-hike. . .8.5 miles at William O'Brian State Park, which is north of Stillwater. The fall colors were nearing their peak, and while the day started off cool, by afternoon we had put all jackets, hats, gloves, etc. into our packs.
We tried two more freeze-dried meals. . .lasagna and chicken teriyaki---not bad.
The Big Trip
Wednesday, October 17th
After a 3+ hour flight from Minneapolis to Phoenix, and a 3+ hour drive from Phoenix to the Grand Canyon National Park, we were finally there!! There was only an hour or so of daylight left, so we quickly checked-in to the Maswik Lodge and then caught the shuttle-bus out to Hopi Point and Hermit's Rest to watch the sunset.
Thursday, October 18th
We hit the South Kaibab (7+ miles to the bottom of the Canyon) trailhead about 10am on Thursday. . .a little later than we had planned, but. . .get this. . .the two women had to do their hair and make-up first.
- Sunrise from the South Rim
- Ken & Julie outside the Bright Angel Lodge
- Waiting for the bus
- Jeff & Julie at the South Kaibab Trailhead
- Julie's ready to hike!!
The steep and seemingly treacherous trail was noticeably affecting two of us, so the going was a little slow until we got to Cedar Ridge for a break. Here we took time for a snack and water, and to duct-tape the hell out of our feet. It was a beautiful afternoon for hiking, but it took us all longer to descend than we expected. It was also far more difficult than any of us had imagined. We finally arrived at the Bright Angel Campground around 3:30. We set up camp, made dinner, and then headed over the the Ranch for the ranger's talk about search & rescue. I thoroughly enjoyed that. . .as well as the beer afterward!! Then it was off to bed.
Jeff on the S. Kaibab Trail
Friday, October 19th
Our group had been of differing opinions about the ascent for months. . .some wanted to hike out on Friday, and some (especially me) wanted to camp at Indian Garden (about half-way back up), do the sunset at Plateau Point, and hike out on Saturday. One of us got wind of the (wimp's) option to shuttle their packs up on mules, and before I knew it, I was the lone person in favor of the second night of camping---I'll go to my grave not understanding what their hurry was to get out of there.
- Hey Dee, do Ken's socks stink?
- The Colorado River is fast and cold
- These bridges are the only River crossings in the Canyon
- Julie enjoys a snack before the real climbing begins
We finally set out from Bright Angel Campground around 8:45am, and by the time I reached the Silver Bridge, my right knee was killing me. I quickly came to the conclusion that I was simply not going to make it past Indian Garden that day. I spent most of the morning hiking alone (I was now the slow one), and I announced my intentions when I finally got to Indian Garden at 12:30pm.
A tense moment or two followed, but I simply told the others to go on up if that's what they wanted to do. We had met two other groups from Minnesota at BA, as well as a group of teachers from Phoenix, so I was perfectly content to stay behind. The others headed out around 1:30pm, having skipping the trip out to Plateau Point. Fools !!!
I got camp set up, then hung out with the Phoenix teachers for a bit before we all walked out to Plateau Point. Denise (see the Thank You section) was right. . .best part of the whole experience. There was also another group out there. . .they had brought their stoves/water/dinner with them for a picnic at Plateau Point, something I will certainly remember to do next time.
The Bright Angel Trail
9.4 miles, and all uphill!!
- Jeff waves at the others from Plateau Point
- The River is 1500 feet below. Don't back up!!!
- Looking east from Plateau Point at sunset
I got back to camp just as it was getting dark, so I quickly made and ate my dinner (scrambled eggs because I had mistakenly not kept a "dinner" meal when the others headed out), and was in my tent around 8pm. I read the Grand Canyon Hiking Guide for just a bit, then called it a day.
Saturday, October 20th
I was up at 6am to break down camp and get going. . .I had agreed to a 10:30am meeting with the rest of my crew. I really had no idea how long it would take me to get out, but I knew I needed to start early. I was strapping on my pack at 7:15, and was up to the 3-mile rest house before 8:30.I stopped here for "breakfast" and to visit with a couple who was also from Minnesota. They gave me lots of tips for places to hike/camp along Minnesota's north shore. I got going again after about 20 minutes of resting and visiting.
I can honestly say that there were at least two times between that rest and reaching the tunnels (which are near the top of the trail) that I just wanted to sit down and cry. . .my knee was still hurting, my hips and shoulders were getting bruised from my pack (I'm a rather bony person so had almost no natural padding), and I was at those times feeling completely alone. I stopped often to catch my breath, take a picture, and have a drink, but I never really took another break.
- The view from one of many switchbacks above Indian Garden
- I could stay here for about a week.
- One last look before I leave the Canyon
I knew I was nearing the top when I met/passed a group of "tourists" at short intervals. I would chat with some of them. . .usually telling them that to fully appreciate the experience they were having, they should walk back up that mile or so with a 30 pound backpack. No takers, but I did hear several kids tell their parents that they wanted to be "real hikers like that guy."
I would swear that between the two tunnels I walked right past Glen Frey of the Eagles. I just said hello and kept going (didn't want to ruin his day), but I swear it was him.
At 10:45am on Saturday, October 20th, 2001, I walked out of the Grand Canyon. Unfortunately, since I was alone, it was a rather uncerimonious moment. No hugs, high-fives, pictures, or anything. I just got on the bus and went to meet my crew. They finally showed up at 11:30 (not 10:30 as we had agreed), and I piled into our rented van and we left the Park.
In Sedona & Prescott
After the Grand Canyon, our group drove through Oak Creek Canyon and spent one night in Sedona and one night in Prescott before catching our flight back to Minnesota. This was sort-of winding down time, a chance to relax, shop, eat, and enjoy a soak in the hot-tub!!
Bell Rock, just south of Sedona
Some Reflections
Overall, I'd say the trip was very good. . .the Canyon was absolutely fantastic, but I just know I'd have enjoyed it just a little more if the others weren't so stubborn and in a rush to get out when we'd basically just gotten there. I know I will be back, next time with a more camping-oriented group. Still, I wouldn't have made the trip at all without them, so I know my disappointment will fade. I've now done something I've wanted to do for 20 years, ever since I was a young Boy Scout reading about other Scouts making the same trek I just completed.Mission accomplished.
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